There are three commercially widespread varieties of clams in the waters of the eastern United States, and a fourth that can be found locally. This discussion will not include mussels and oysters, which are closely related bivalves with different gastronomic propensities.
Ways to Serve Clams
Clams can be eaten raw, cooked or in a popular stew known as chowder—or "chowda," as it is more properly called in its New England home. All clams may be created equal, but each one has a particular way in which it can be best prepared and eaten.
Preparing Raw Clams
The only clams that should be eaten raw is the quahog (pronounced "koe-hog"). I like medium-sized specimens (known as cherrystones) the best, but smaller quahogs, called little necks, are almost as good. I consider it an abomination to consume even the largest quahog any way but raw.
You would think there isn't much to eating a clam raw, but that is not the case. First, you have to open the clam, which must be alive and will resist your efforts. To do this requires a little strength and an absence of squeamishness. Place the clam on a steady surface, hinge side down. Place a knife blade at its midpoint between the shells. With both hands on top of the knife, press down firmly. Cut the meat away from the shells and place it on one shell, discarding the other. Keep as much of the juice in the shell as it will hold. Raw clams should always be served chilled.
A raw cherrystone is a delicacy by itself, but for maximum enjoyment, it should be garnished with a proper sauce. All it takes is horseradish, ketchup and Tabasco sauce. I prefer about three or four parts of ketchup to one part of horseradish with just the tiniest drop of Tabasco. Experimentation will show you the right proportions for your tastes, as well as the correct amount to put on a clam. Some clam experts like to add a spritz of lemon over the top of the clams, but I'm indifferent.
If you dig your own clams, be sure the area is open for digging. All quahog-bearing waters are tested by local authorities for coliform bacteria. Also be sure that you have the proper license. Digging in closed areas increases the risks of hepatitis, and digging without a license risks a fine or imprisonment.
Steamed Clams
There is only one clam that is acceptable for steaming: the Ipswich clam, also called the soft-shell clam, or simply steamer. As the name implies, the steamer has a soft shell compared to the tough shell of the quahog.
Be sure to wash the clams thoroughly before cooking. A little bit of sand takes much of the enjoyment out of eating steamers. Place them in boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes. You can tell they are ready when they open—most of them will.
Some of the water in which the clams were cooked should be served, strained, along with melted butter. There is a skin covering the siphon which should be removed. To eat steamed clams, dip them in water to remove any remaining bits of sand, then place them in melted butter.
New England 'Chowda'
My personal preference for "chowda" is the razor clam, but this is not widely available. The Atlantic surf clam, commonly known as the sea clam, is just about as good. The clams can usually be purchased processed, but if you dig your own, you have to clean them, which involves cutting the muscle on both sides, cutting the meat away from the shell, discarding the stomach and removing bits of skin. Clams should be washed thoroughly. Grains of sand are even more annoying in "chowda" than steamers.
Mable's Famous Clam 'Chowda'
"Chowda can be served right afta you make it, but it is always betta (as they say in Maine) the next day. Ehyup."
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients:
- 10 russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed, peeled and diced
- Coarse salt, for cooking water, plus more to taste
- 3 large white onions, peeled and diced
- 4 cups shucked, chopped clams, such as Atlantic surf clams, razor clams or quahogs
- 4 sticks (1 pound) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 cups milk
Directions:
- Place potatoes in a large Dutch oven or heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover potatoes with water, season with salt and cook for about 45 minutes, until soft. Add onions and simmer for another 20 minutes.
- Reduce heat to medium-low. Add clams to potatoes and onions and cook for another 2 minutes. Do not let the liquid come to a boil.
- Add butter to saucepan, increase heat to medium and bring the liquid almost to a boil. Add heavy cream and bring liquid almost to a boil.
- Stir in milk, 1/2 cup at a time, and bring liquid almost to a boil. Remove saucepan from heat and season with salt to taste.
Jon Plotkin - The author was a math major at Cornell and has a master's degree in meteorology from MIT.
